Bad Credit Credit Cards: Avoid Hidden Fees and Rebuild Your Credit Cheaply

February 27, 2006

By Guest Author Jeff Weber

Individuals with problematic credit histories often suffer unfairly from high mortgage, insurance, and car loan rates. On top of that, they have difficulty getting approved for credit cards. The whole situation can get extremely frustrating. Frequently, I get emails from consumers wondering what they can do to rebuild their credit. The first thing I tell them is to get a credit card designed for people with bad credit. The second thing I tell them is written in bold: READ THE FINE PRINT.

There are only a limited number of credit cards for individuals with bad credit. At first glance, many look the same. They all help build and rebuild your credit by reporting to the major credit bureaus on a monthly basis. They all provide you with the Visa or Mastercard you need to make many purchases. And they are all necessary evils that can save you thousands of dollars in mortgage and car loan rates in the future. However, you must read the fine print before applying for one of these credit cards, as they often charge high yearly fees, set-up fees, and even monthly fees. Here, I will examine a few examples of charges current “bad credit” credit cards bury in the fine print. Of the three major cards I will examine, only one stands out as consumer-friendly.

“Bad Credit” Credit Card #1: This credit card charges a very low interest rate for an unsecured credit card. However, your first fine print glimpse reveals that there is a one time setup fee of $29. Not too bad. So far, since the next charge is a one time fee of $95. So far, we’re up to $124 in expenses. That’s got to be it, right? No. Add in another $48 for the annual fee and $6 per month in account maintenance fees. That’s brings the cost of your new credit card to $244 the first year, and $120 each additional year. This is no small change, and a card such as this should be considered only if you cannot be accepted for a better unsecured credit card for bad credit.

“Bad Credit” Credit Card #2: This credit card charges a very high interest rate for an unsecured credit card. This can’t be good. But the setup fee is only $29. Maybe this card isn’t so bad. There is that pesky monthly maintenance fee of $6.50 per month which brings the cost of this unsecured credit card to $107. Maybe we’ve found a bargain. Not quite. The annual fee is a whopping $150. Yes, $150 every year. That not only brings the initial cost up to $257, but you will also pay $228 a year just to maintain the credit card. There has to be a better offer.

“Bad Credit” Credit Card #3: This credit card is available as both a secured and unsecured credit card, based on the issuer’s review of your credit history. The interest rate is average, even competitive. Now, the fine print reveals that there is a one time setup fee. However, based on your credit, this fee can be as low as $0 or as high as $49. So far so good, especially if your credit is not that bad. But, there must be a huge annual fee. Not exactly. The annual fee for a secured credit card is only $35, and for an unsecured credit card, this fee can be as low as $39 or up to $79. So far, the cost of this card ranges from $35 to $128. Now its time for the monthly maintance fee. This one has to be huge. Or not. Its $0. That means the most you could possible be charged to obtain this credit card is $128, about half of what competing cards are charging.

Clearly, there are substantial difference between “bad credit” credit cards. Of the three offers we have examined, only one doesn’t take you to the cleaners. In fact, “bad credit” credit card #3 provides great value. All positive changes to your credit history and credit score will translate into lower loan rates, lower credit card interest rates, lower insurance rates, and ultimately, thousands of dollars in savings. The path to rebuilding credit has its costs, but in the long term, rebuilding your credit with a “bad credit” credit card is the fastest and most cost-efficient way to correct the often unfortunate circumstances that have damaged your credit in the first place.

©2006 Credit Card Depot Inc.

The author is President & CEO of Credit Card Depot Inc, an online credit card information portal. Credit Card Depot Inc’s flagship website, http://www.credit-card-depot.com, helps over 40,000 consumers find new credit cards every month. At Credit Card Depot, you can compare “bad credit” credit card applications and apply online for instant approval.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jeff_Weber

Bob Roscoe, Mortgage Marketing Associates, Minneapolis, Minnesota
Disputing Your Credit Report

Tips and Tricks to Rebuild and Establish Positive Credit

February 22, 2006

By Guest Author Ed Nailor

On a scale of 1 to 10, how would your rate your credit? How about a scale of 350-850? If you aren’t too sure, you might want to check into it. There are plenty of sites online where you can get a free copy of your credit report and credit score.

Did you know that scores below 640 are considered poor credit? If you are currently in this category, here are a few tips that may help. If you have pulled yourself up from below 640, see if these tips are familiar. If not, they may actually help push your scores up more!

First, lets talk about time. Time is one of the greatest gifts you have in rebuilding your credit… so don’t waste it. By not doing something now, you only make the process longer! The longer you do the right things, the better your scores will get!

Second, if you have simply given up on your credit, get on with life! Your mistakes of the past do not have to dictate your future. Learn from the past and use the right types of credit to build your credit file.

Third, start off easy and small. Don’t worry about getting the $10,000 personal credit line right off the bat. Its like deciding to buy a new BMW or Mercedes the day after your old car was repossessed! Start off with a secured loan using your savings account. There are credit unions and banks that will lend you as little as $500 provided you put $500 in their savings.

Fourth, get a revolving credit card and use it properly. Do not max it out. Simply charge a small amount each month and pay it off each month when the bill arrives. This will really give your score a kick!

Finally, take it easy and slow. Don’t worry about trying to get from 520 to 780 overnight. Its safe to say your scores probably didn’t drop overnight, so don’t expect them to raise up that quickly either.

Good luck and happy credit building!

We want to hear from you! Do you have suggestions or tips that others may benefit from in rebuilding credit? Please visit a blog espcially designed for this at http://www.droprent.com/blog/

Ed Nailor is a webmaster, writer and works in the financial and credit fields. His website, http://www.BestNewCreditCards.com has the most current credit card offers online. Each card has a comprehensive review, details about each offer, and a link to the site for instant online applications.

For additional suggestions and tips, be sure to check out the free articles about credit and blog for great credit tips, news and feedback.

About the Author
Ed Nailor,
More Details about Rebuilding Credit here. Ed Nailor is a webmaster, writer and works in the financial and credit fields. His website, http://www.BestNewCreditCards.com has the most current credit card offers online. Each card has a comprehensive review, details about each offer, and a link to the site for instant online applications. Be sure to check out the free articles and Blog for great tips, news and feedback.

Bob Roscoe, Mortgage Marketing Associates, Minneapolis, Minnesota
Credit Articles

Do Your Homework - Find the Mortgage That Fits Your Lifestyle and Your Budget

February 18, 2006

By Guest Author Bill Tannebring

You’ve been looking at houses for months, and finally you’ve found it–the house that’s just right. So now, all you have to do is to purchase your new home, move in, and get settled, right? Not quite. There’s one more big step to go-getting a mortgage loan. You’re going to want to decide on the type of mortgage and payment terms that fit within your budget. And you’re going to have to prepare yourself by doing some research. What follows is valuable information that will be crucial in helping you make loan decisions that will fit your budget and circumstance.

Series: 3 Finding a Perfect Match for your Home Mortgage

Factors That Affect Your Mortgage

Mortgage payments are determined based on the following criteria:

Amount of the loan
Length of the loan
Down payment
Discount points
Closing costs
Credit quality
Income level
Lock in period

Loan Amount: The amount of your loan can increase your interest rate if the amount financed exceeds the conforming loan limits set by Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac, (private corporations regulated by the federal government) that administer loans. The conforming loan limit changes at the beginning of each year.

Shorter loans, such as a 30 year or 15 year note, can save you thousand of dollars in interest payments over the life of the loan, but your monthly payments will be high. An adjustable rate mortgage may get you started with a lower interest rate than a fixed rate mortgage, but your payments could get higher when the interest rate changes.

Down Payment: A large down payment will give you the best possible rate. If you’ve got the cash now and want to lower your payments, you can pay points on your loan to lower your mortgage rate. The concept is simple: In exchange for more money upfront, lenders are willing to lower their interest rate, cutting the borrower’s payments. Remember to consider upcoming expenses and closing costs in your down payment decision.

Closing costs. In addition to your down payment, you will need to pay closing costs for processing your loan and transferring the property ownership from the seller to you, the buyer. Closing costs can range from 3%-5% of your loan amount, depending on where you live, the loan you choose and your closing date. In some cases, you can finance certain closing costs in your mortgage loan. When you apply for loan, your lender will give you an estimate of closing costs, which usually include:

Origination fees.

Costs of processing your loan (includes property survey and appraisal). Items paid in advance, such as first-year mortgage insurance premium, first-year hazard insurance premium and first-year flood or earthquake insurance premiums, if required.

Escrow accounts – an account held by the lender into which the homebuyer usually pays for city/county property taxes, mortgage insurance, and hazard insurance, if required.

Title insurance charges.

Recording and transfer charges.

Attorney’s fees.

Credit Score: Your credit and debt-to-income-ratio affect the terms of your loan through your FICO score which is used to determine your credit rating. If you have good credit and your monthly income exceeds your monthly debt obligations, you will get approved at a lower interest rate. However, if your monthly income barely covers your minimum debt obligations, you will not receive the lowest available interest rate even if you have a good credit report.

Lock-in Rate: When shopping for a loan remember that interest rates change frequently. It is important to ask your mortgage representative if a lock-in rate is possible. This will guarantee you a specific rate, provided the loan is closed, with a set period of time. Determine How Large a Monthly Mortgage Payment You Can Afford

Your choice of mortgage will be influenced by questions such as How many years do you expect to live in your new home? How important is it to be free of mortgage debt before facing your children’s college bills or planning your future retirement? How comfortable are you with the certainty of a fixed mortgage payment vs. a payment that can change over time?

Your monthly payment will vary depending upon the type and length of the loan and the amount you put down. Most lenders will help you select the loan that’s best suited to your financial situation.

How Low an Interest Rate Can You Expect?

Shorter term loans offer lower interest rates and are divided into two types. A Fixed mortgage means that the rate is locked in for the life of the loan. Adjustable Rate, also called an ARM or variable rate note, is a note that generally offers lower payments for the first year and then changes periodically based on the terms and conditions of your note. Paying discount “points” can lower your interest rate. If your loan requires you to pay points or if you want to buy “down” the interest rate using points, remember that one point equals 1% of the loan amount.

Choosing the Right Mortgage

If you want the stability and predictability of a set rate for the life of your loan, then a fixed rate mortgage may be for you. Usually the longer the term of the mortgage, the more interest you pay over the life of your loan. Though, a longer term means your monthly mortgage payments will be less than they would be with a comparable shorter-term mortgage.

30 year vs. 15 year fixed rate mortgage.

A 30-year mortgage will have a lower monthly payment and a higher interest rate than a 15-year mortgage. You’ll have a smaller monthly obligation but you’ll pay more for your house over time because you’re paying it off with interest for a longer period. On the other hand, a 15-year mortgage will have a higher monthly payment and a lower interest rate so you’ll pay less for your house because you’re paying it off in a shorter period.

Adjustable Rate Mortgage.

ARMs, are short-term fixed-rate loans: After the fixed rate term is up, the rate adjusts at regular intervals in accordance with current interest rate conditions at that time. A 5/1 ARM, for example, has a fixed rate for five years and then adjusts every year for the next 25 years. (ARMs typically run on a 30-year schedule.)

The length of the fixed-rate term on an ARM typically can range anywhere from one month to 10 years. The longer the rate is fixed, the higher the interest rate you’ll get. But generally speaking — and there have been exceptions in the past — ARMs will cost you less in the short-term. With the ARM, both your monthly payments and interest rates should be lower than either a fixed rate 15-year or 30-year mortgage.

The risk with an ARM is that when interest rates rise, you could end up paying much more than you bargained for. Check to see if your ARM has a cap rate so that if rates increase, your change cannot exceed a certain pre-defined limit.

If you know you’ll be in a home for 12 years or more, a 30-year fixed rate mortgage might work better for you than, say, a 5/1 ARM, where you fix a rate for five years and then it adjusts every year after that. But if you think you won’t be in the home longer than five or six years, a 5/1 ARM might make more sense.

Mortgage Shopping Tips.

Talk to the mortgage specialists at your bank. If you are starting to look for a home they can asses your financial situation and help you determine a purchase price that is within your budget and a mortgage program that suits your lifestyle and income. In many cases your advisor can prepare a pre-approved mortgage before you finalize your purchase.

Ask a mortgage specialist at your bank to help you calculate payments at different interest rates. This will help you determine a monthly payment that can be comfortable integrated into your budget.

Types of Mortgage Programs.

Most lenders are committed to ensuring that your home financing experience is rewarding and effortless. To this end, there are many programs available to suit a variety of situations, lifestyles and your financial profiles. These include:

Fixed-rate loan. If you’ve found a home you plan to live in for 10-30 years, consider a fixed-rate loan. It’s predictable and stable since the interest rate is set for the full length of the loan. Because the monthly payment for the principal and interest stays the same for the life of the loan, it’s easier to plan a budget. Most lenders offer many fixed-rate loans with terms to fit your budget, including loans that require no money down.

Adjustable-rate loan.

If you plan on being in your home for a shorter period of time, or expect your income to increase of the years, an adjustable-rate mortgage (ARM) may just be the right fit for you. An ARM loan usually starts with a lower initial interest rate than traditional fixed-rate loans. After a set initial payment period (usually one, three, five, seven or ten years), the interest rate may change periodically (usually annually or semiannually) based on market conditions. As the rate changes, your monthly payment changes. ARM loans feature an adjustment “cap” which limits how much the interest rate can go up. This helps protect you from large increases in your monthly payment.

Loans for first-time homebuyers.

Most banks offer affordable loans to make it easier for first-time homebuyers with limited savings to qualify for a home loan. Specifically, FHA and VA government loans are available to qualified buyers, based on income or property location. These affordable financing programs can help make it easier to buy a home since they require little or no money down and also offer flexible credit and income guidelines.

Repayment schedule.

Also consider how quickly you’d like to repay your loan – within 15 years, 20 years, 25 years, 30 years? Do you want to make biweekly mortgage payments? Typically, the sooner you repay the loan, the more you’ll save in interest payments. However, the longer you extend the term of your financing, the lower your monthly payments maybe. So when choosing a loan term, consider your budget, your long-term spending patterns, your income over the life of the loan and how long you plan to stay in your home.

Which loan is right for me?

The lifestyle situations below can help you decide which loan you might want to consider.

”Getting the lowest monthly payment is most important to me, and I’ll be in my home for less than five years.” An intermediate ARM (five years or longer) if your income is fixed or expected to decline. A short-term ARM (three years or less) if you expect your income to increase.

“Getting the lowest monthly payment is most important to me, and I’ll be in my home for more than five years.” A fixed-term mortgage (for example, 30-year fixed). An intermediate ARM if you expect your income to keep increasing.

”I have little money saved for a down payment.” AN FHA loan. A VA loan, if you are a veteran.

“I have no traditional credit references (for example, car loan or credit cards) but I pay my rent and other bills on time.” An FHA loan. A VA loan, if you are a veteran.

“Paying off my mortgage faster and saving money by paying less interest long-term is what’s most important to me.” A shorter-term mortgage, such as 15- or 20-year fixed-rate loan. A biweekly 30-year mortgage accelerates the reduction in principal by applying more than one extra payment a year, reducing the total interest and term of the loan

Borrowers Protection Plan

Borrowers Protection Plan is an optional feature of your loan that can provide peace of mind during difficult times – like an unexpected job loss or disability. Borrowers Protection Plan will cancel your monthly principal and interest payment should you lose your job or are unable to work due to illness or injury. Borrowers Protection Plan may cancel a total of up to 12 months, depending upon the protection option and benefit period selected. And if you should die in an accident your entire loan balance will be canceled.

Benefits of protection.

Affordable. Decide what you and your family need and we’ll help make it affordable.

Easy to obtain. There are no health requirements or medical exams and any size loan qualifies.

Supplemental benefits. Your monthly benefits will not be reduced because of other state unemployment benefits or disability income you may receive. Protection options available prior to loan closing include involuntary unemployment and disability and can be purchased individually, or as a combination. These options also include accidental death protection and are available on a single or joint basis.

Fast answers and streamlined processing. The approval process should be fast and simple. Many homebuyers who have excellent credit history can be approved for a mortgage at the time of the application and with very little documentation.

Hassle-free mortgages with 80% less paperwork.

Use a proprietary process to determine if you qualify for this streamlined loan feature. This means less digging, sorting and collecting paperwork for you.

Your qualification for reduced paperwork depends on a number of factors: Strong credit — doesn’t have to be perfect Type of mortgage you choose — many mortgage types and loan amounts up to $750,000 are eligible Even if you don’t qualify for the 80% less paperwork mortgage feature, your mortgage request can still be approved.

Buying a home is one of the most important events in your life. So talk to the mortgage professionals, do your homework and select a loan that fits your lifestyle and your budget. And enjoy the satisfaction of owning your own home.
Bill Tannebring - EzineArticles Expert Author

Bill Tanebring is a Southern California based writer. His web address is http://www.billtannebring.net

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Bill_Tannebring

106 Mortgage Secrets All Homebuyers Must Learn - But Lenders Don't Tell
106 Mortgage Secrets All Homebuyers Must Learn - But Lenders Don’t Tell

Mortgage Loans 101: Who or What is Freddie Mac?

February 17, 2006

By Guest Author Brandon Cornett

Freddie Mac can help you obtain a home mortgage loan.

But while Freddie Mac might sound like a generous uncle, it’s more closely related to Uncle Sam. So what is Freddie Mac, and how does it help you when buying a home?

Freddie Mac is the Federal Home Loan Mortgage Corporation, a private corporation founded by Congress in 1970. Freddie Mac supports the secondary mortgage market by purchasing residential mortgage loans, securitizing them, and selling them to investors (usually through Wall Street).

By purchasing mortgage loans, Freddie Mac increases the availability and affordability of home loans for low- and middle-income Americans.

So while you won’t normally deal with them directly, Freddie Mac has a major impact on the price of mortgage loans — something that does affect you directly.

Here’s how Freddie Mac explains their primary benefit to home buyers. The following passage comes from their website, www.FreddieMac.com:

“Currently, we buy one mortgage every seven seconds to help finance one in six American homes … Because Freddie Mac exists, millions of Americans benefit from lower interest rates, readily available home mortgage credit, a wide choice of mortgage products and reduced loan origination costs.”

Educating Home Buyers
Freddie Mac also plays a major role in educating home buyers. Their website offers a lot of informative (and credible) articles on home ownership, home buying, mortgages and more. To use these resources, visit www.FreddieMac.com.

* Copyright 2006, Brandon Cornett. You may republish this article in its entirety, provided you keep the byline, author’s note and website hyperlink intact.

About the Author

Brandon Cornett is the editor of HomeBuyingInstitute.com, one of the Internet’s largest libraries of home buying information — over 100 expert articles on home buying and home mortgage loans! Learn more at: http://www.homebuyinginstitute.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Brandon_Cornett

Bob Roscoe, Mortgage Marketing Associates, Minneapolis, Minnesota
Bob’s Site

The Handbook of Mortgage-Banking: Trends, Opportunities and Strategies
The Handbook of Mortgage-Banking: Trends, Opportunities and Strategies

Mortgage Glossary of Terms

February 16, 2006

By Guest Author Darren Yates

Adverse Credit
The term used if the borrower has a poor credit history. This could include previous mortgage or loan arrears, bankruptcy or CCJ’s. Other terms used to describe an adverse credit mortgage include:

* Bad credit mortgage

* Poor credit mortgage

* Non status mortgage

* Credit impaired mortgage

* No credit mortgage

* Low credit score mortgage

APR (Annual Percentage Rate)
The interest rate reflecting the cost of a mortgage as a yearly rate. The APR provides home buyers with the ability to compare different types of mortgages based on the annual cost of each.

Arrangement Fee
The fee you pay your Lender in return for them providing you with a mortgage. Usually paid on completion or with your application, these fees usually apply when you take out a fixed rate, discount or cashback mortgage.

AST (Assured Shorthold Tenancy)
A form of tenancy that gives the landlord the right to repossess their property after a set amount of time laid out in the tenancy agreement. New tenancies are automatically ASTs unless otherwise stated.

Assured tenancy
The landlord can charge a market rent (the current rate for similar property in that area) and take back the property under certain conditions, as set out in the Housing Acts of 1988 and 1996.

Bridging Loan/Finance
Short term loan to enable the purchase of one property before the sale of another essentially releasing funds that are required for the purchase. You should always consult a professional before considering any bridging finance as it could be a solution that is worse than the problem.

Brokers Fee
A fee charged by an intermediary or advisor for locating the most appropriate mortgage for the borrower.

Buildings insurance
Insurance you can take out when you buy a property that will cover the cost of any damage to the house and or contents..

Buy to Let
A mortgage meant for those who wish to purchase a property to rent out to others. The decision on whether you are able to repay this type of mortgage is often based up on the future rental income from the property rather than the personal income of you the borrower.

CCJ (County Court Judgment)
A judgement reached in the County Court generally realted to non payment of a loan, mortgage etc debt in general. If you pay off the debt, the CCJ will be satisfied and a note is put on your records that states this.

Chain
A housing ‘chain’ made up of a number of buyers and sellers, essentially the line of buyers and sellers involved in each house move.

Charge
Any right or interest, especially with a mortgage, to which a freehold or leasehold property may be held. Basically a charge is the claim the lender has on the property until the mortgage or loan is satisfied.

Completion
The term used when the seller and buyer exchange the finances required to buy a property through their respective solicitors. At exchange of contracts a deposit, usually 10%, will have been paid. At this point the buyer becomes legal owner of the property.

Conveyance
The legal process in which ownership of the property is transferred from the seller to the buyer. Generally undertaken by a solicitor, or licensed conveyancer.

Early redemption fee
If you decide that you want to sell your property or remortgage then you will be redeeming you mortgage early. Most lenders charge a penalty fee, especially during any period of a fixed, capped or discounted rate. Be sure you are clear about any potential penalties when you are about to take on a mortgage.

Equity and negative equity
The amount of value in a property that isn’t covered by a mortgage - simply take the amount of the mortgage from the valuation to work out the equity. This is where the money you owe on the mortgage is greater than the value of your property.

Exchange of contracts
The contract is a written agreement that lays out the terms between the buyer and the seller. When both parties exchange contracts, usually weeks before completion, the deal becomes legally binding. Often a deposit of around 10%, is paid at this stage.

Fixed Rate
A set interest rate on a mortgage fixed for a period of time. This varies from lender to lender.

Freehold
If you are the property owner outright then your property is freehold. Most houses are freehold wheres many flats are leasehold, since you are not the owner of the whole building containing the flats.

Gazumping
If you are in the process of purchasing a property and your offer has been accepted but the seller gets a better offer, before you complete, and takes it then, you’ve just been ‘Gazumped’.

Interest Only Mortgage
A mortgage whereby the borrower is only required to pay inerest on the amount borrowed during the mortgage term. It is the borrowers responsibility to ensure that enough funds will exist (either through an investment policyor other means) to repay the full mortgage at the end of the term.

Intermediary
A mortgage broker or advisor who finds the most suitable mortgage for a borrower and arranges the mortgage on their behalf.

Leasehold
If you buy a leasehold property you don’t own the property rather the right to live there for a specified period of time, however much time remains on the lease. The owner of the property is called the freeholder or landlord.

Liability
This relates more to commercial mortgages. With a commercial mortgage liability for the repayment of the loan depends on the legal structure of the business:

A sole trader will be personally liable for the mortgage debt. Personal assets could be seized if the business defaults.

Partners are jointly liable for the debts of the partnership and their personal assets are at risk

With a limited-liability partnership and a limited company, the liability falls firstly on the business rather than on the individual partners and directors. The lender may take a floating charge on business assets in general, rather than simply on the current property being purchased.

The lender may also insist on personal guarantees as a condition of granting the loan, in which case the partners and directors may be held personally liable anyway.

Life insurance
If you have a joint mortgage, life insurance can be acquired that will see the mortgage paid of should one of you pass on.

LTV (Loan to Value)
The size of the mortgage as a percentage of the value of the property i.e. A £90k mortgage on a house valued at £100k would mean an LTV of 90%.

MIG (Mortgage Indemnity Guarantee)
A one off payment made when you set up a mortgage a kind of insurance policy for the lender. This offers them protection against the value of the home falling to less than the mortgage. It is generally only charged to borrowers with a less than 10% deposit, but this can vary.

Mortgage
A loan to buy a property where the property is used as security against you paying back the loan.

Mortgagee
The company or organisation that lends you the money.

Mortgagor
The person taking out the mortgage.

Non-Status
Where a lender may not require income details from you or may accept some previous poor credit history i.e. CCJ’s or previous mortgage arrears.

Payment Holiday
A period during which the borrower makes no mortgage payments.

Regulated tenancy
A legal right to live in your accommodation for a period of time. Your tenancy might be for a set period such as a year (this is known as a fixed term tenancy) or it might roll on a week-to-week or month-to-month basis (this is known as a periodic tenancy).You are a regulated tenant if you moved in before 15 January 1989, you pay rent to a private landlord and your landlord does not live in the same building as you.

Remortgage
The taking on of a second mortgage to pay off the first. The most common reasons for doing this are that another mortgage is available at a better rate or that the value of the property has gone up allowing for the opportunity to borrow more money against the property.

Right to Buy
For example, a tenant in a council owned property may purchase the property at a discount depending on length of their tenancy.

Self Certified
Generally when a borrower applies for a mortgage he or she will be asked to provide pay slips or company accounts to prove their income. If it is difficult or inconvenient for you to provide this evidence, you can choose to self-certify your income. This involves signing a declaration which states your income sources and amounts. Lenders will charge you higher rates than average and offer you a more limited range of mortgages if you choose to self-certifyyour income, in general it’s not a good idea to self-certify just to avoid some paperwork.

Stamp Duty
Tax paid by the buyer of a property set at 1% for properties over £60k, 3% for properties over £250k and 4% for properties over £500k.

Structural survey
The most wide ranging check of the structure of a property. This is carried out by professional surveyor and should uncover any defects or faults with the building.

Tenancy
A legal written agreement between a landlord and tenant that sets out the terms of the rental.

Term
The period of years over which you take the mortgage and repay it.

Term Assurance
An insurance policy designed to repay the mortgage on the death of the insured person. Level Term Assurance covers a principal sum throughout the policy term and pays out the full amount on death. Reducing Term Assurance is designed to repay the balance outstanding on a repayment type mortgage upon death. Term Assurance may also pay out early on the diagnosis of a terminal illness.

Underwriting
The process of evaluating a loan application to determine the risk involved for the lender. This involves an analysis of the borrower’s creditworthinessand the quality of the property itself.

Unencumbered
Where the property is owned outright and no mortgages or loans are secured against it.

Valuation
A simple check of the property in order to find out how much it is worth and whether it is suitable to secure a mortgage against.

Valuation Fee
The fee paid by a borrower to cover the cost of the lender checking that the property is suitable security for the mortgage.

Variable Rate
A type of interest rate the lender can charge. It goes up and down and your repayments change accordingly.

Vendor
The person selling the property.

About the Author
Specialists in Bridging Finance and Commercial Mortgage lending Commercial Lifeline. Independent UK based Commercial Finance brokers.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Darren_Yates

The Mortgage Encyclopedia: An Authoritative Guide to Mortgage Programs, Practices, Prices, and Pitfalls
The Mortgage Encyclopedia: An Authoritative Guide to Mortgage Programs, Practices, Prices, and Pitfalls

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